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La
Spezia is embedded in the heart of the
Gulf of Poets, a definition evoking
landscapes of touching beauty between
tiny coves and vertical cliffs. The
chief town of the eastern Ligurian
province lies in the innermost point of
the bay– a barycentric (and sheltered)
position that has fostered the
development of La Spezia throughout the
centuries. Nowadays, this strategic
location is appreciated by connoisseur
travellers willing to explore the
enchantment of the area zigzagging from
the coast to the entroterra. The Cinque
Terre, Portovenere, Lerici, Fiascherino,
Tellaro, Montemarcello, Sarzana, the
mouth of the Magra and the greenery of
the Val di Vara, in fact, crown an
unexpected, wealthy town, surprising
visitors with the dynamism of its
cultural identity.
Liguria meets Tuscany in this border
province, land of exchanges and commerce
since the night of times. Tradition,
history and economy tell the tale of the
changing fortunes of potentates and
towns: mysterious Luni, the ancient
fluvial Roman port and first seat of the
Bishopric; Sarzana, the lively epicentre
of trades with Lunigiana; Portovenere,
the tactical pawn in the chess game
between genoa and Pisa in the age of the
Maritime republics.
Up to the 14th century La Spezia ranked
as a minor centre, which – nevertheless
- had already whetted Genoese appetites
(in the 13th century the Superba had
taken appropriate measures to crush the
Fieschi’s ambitions over the area). Once
it entered the capital’s sphere of
action, La Spezia started modelling its
own economical and political personality
(in 1343 the podesteria of
La Spezia was
established). The following centuries
saw the flowering of the mercantile
vocation of local economy and – in the
17th century - the development of the
city as a military stronghold protecting
Genoa’s interests. At the beginning of
the 19th century the French recognized
the strategic potential of the port, but
it was only with the Unity of Italy –
under the mandate of Prime Minister
Cavour – that La Spezia won its primacy
as military port and seat of the Arsenal,
a new identity that shaped (in more way
than one) the growth of the 19th century
town as well as that of the mercantile
port.
Unfortunately, the heavy bombing of WW
II destroyed to a certain extent the
memories of the past: nevertheless,
attentive visitors can still interpret
the urban and architectonic layout as a
jigsaw puzzle of ages and styles.
La
Spezia offers a stimulating alternation
of antiquity and modernity: careful
restoration works having saved old
buildings from decay, the city now
boasts a number of new cultural centres.
Culture has in fact been identified as
the guideline of development. The
landmark of the town’s contemporary
identity shows in a multitude of
exhibitions, events and – above all -
active museums, providing the most
effective interpretation key as regards
the history, habitats and art (not to
forget the local taste for collecting
and Maecenatism) of the place.
You are strongly recommended to start
your tour from the Museo Civico
Archeologico “Ubaldo Formentini”, hosted
by the imposing Castello di San Giorgio.
This Medieval castle represents one of
the symbols of urban history: recently
restored, it stands in the area of the
primitive city settlement, the Poggio.
The rooms of the museum house
archaeological finds coming from
important private collections. Do not
misses include the stele statues from
Lunigiana (Bronze Age and Iron Age), so
modern in their essentiality, and fall
under the spell of their detached
aristocratic glance; and the wealth
materials found in Luni, both Roman (marbles,
statues, floor mosaics, ceramics and
objects of daily use) and early-
medieval (this being the time of Luni’s
decline and Sarzana’s progressive rise). |